Adsum has Bugs

...in the terrariums (-a?), on the windowsills.

The bigger-than-basketballs glass chemists' flasks atop cork coasters would be the last thing to catch your eye on entry, but as you study their internal topography while awaiting mouth-watering dishes, you find yourself getting to know the insect residents of Bainbridge street.

There are other artifacts inside the terraria - a miniature plastic doll buried head-first up to the thighs, disused dentures, and an armless miniature plastic baby... the feeling conveyed is that your immediate environment deserves some closer attention than a passing glance.

Dimly lit and uncrowded the night we visited for dinner, courtesy of some generous family members as their Christmas gift to us, we were greeted warmly by the hostess and shown the table "the farthest away from the door", which we very much appreciated as the temperature outside was resting in the lower 20's.

We selected the Fried Oysters with Pickle Juice Remoulade as an appetizer - the portion was plenty for two, the oysters in a spicy batter and fried just to be tender, retaining even some of their briny taste. Combined with the remoulade, the dish was perfectly structured and balanced.

Entrees brought Homemade Pierogies with Burnt Onions, Thyme, and Smoked Buttermilk, and Diver Scallops with Butternut, Jalapeno, Tonka (roe) and Butterscotch.

[Side note about restaurants touting anything labeled "Home-made" - there are two ways to accomplish this truthfully, both equally improbable: either the chef or an employee prepares the food at home and brings to the restaurant to further prepare, cook, or reheat and sell, or someone resides in the restaurant itself, making it a home... and the food home-made.]

As for the pierogies - they were straightforward, not cooked to rock-hard, and contained only potato, which let the several garnishes speak their volumes. The burnt (sauteed, right?) onions and thyme worked well together, and the buttermilk was of a light sour cream consistency with nice smoky flavor that rounded out the dish.

The diver scallops were well-proportioned, the dish came with four mid-sized scallops arranged to the four points of the compass and topped with tonka (it was salmon roe, some google searches got me no further...) and chopped jalapeno, in a yellow smear of butternut squash with butterscotch glaze. Every swipe across the plate resulted in a delicious mouthful and an attractive new mustard-on-porcelain pattern.

To this point everything had been very good, and we were already well-satisfied. But there was no denying the logic behind our waiter's suggestion of the Chocolate + Bacon "Snickers" bar with Hot Chocolate. It's as strangely good as it sounds, bacon buried atop a nougat bar beneath cold chocolate, alongside a lump of candy caramel peanut goo. Absolutely heavenly and again, plenty for two. The accompanying hot chocolate would easily rival the best offering of Naked Chocolate, a franchise built around their 'sipping' chocolate. Its whipped cream layer was more like thick sweet frosting.

By the end we were convinced; a worthwhile meal and one that we'll keep on the map for a return visit soon, especially for their 1/2 priced appetizers from 5-7, Sun-Thurs...